Stories of Culture Through Architecture
“Of all the Provincial styles of Indo-Muslim architecture, that of Gujarat is the largest, the most important and the most elegant.” ( Desai, 1970). The Gujarat style leapt when the Delhi indo-islamic architecture was at its peak. Gujarat style was beautiful and generous itself, but the blend with the Khalji style resulted in a new style which was spectacular in both aspects, structural and decorative. The style was distinguished not only by its trabeated system but also by the concept of bringing light in a closed prayer hall and many such richly decorated architectural elements such as Jharokhas, Traceries, Buttresses and Sluices.
History of Sarkhej Roza
Sarkhej Roza has a collection of monuments that combine social, royal and spiritual contexts. It was built during the beginning of the sultanate era in Gujarat. The first to be built on site was the mosque and mausoleum in the memory of Khattu Ganj Baksh.
At the time, Ahmedabad was under the rule of Sultan Ahmed Shah. Ganj Baksh was from Delhi but he moved to Ahmedabad and was an official advisor to the sultan and an admired Sufi saint. At the end of his life, he moved away from the city hustle to the tranquil environment of Sarkhej. The saint died there and the sultan ordered the construction of a mosque and mausoleum. It was completed under his successor Quttubudin in 1451. The mosque was trabeated style having no arched facade. It is a very simple mosque and according to Ferguson, except for the Moti Mahal in Agra, no mosque in India is more remarkable for simple elegance than this.
Sarkhej became the center of further architectural activities under Sultan Mahmud Begda. The Gujarat style was at its best under the reign of Mahmud Begda. In the mid-15th Century, he expanded the site by adding a tank, pavilions and a private mosque. Akbar added elements to this monument to leave his mark after Ahmedabad fell into the hands of Mughal forces. The addition of elements by different rulers of different eras makes the monuments a remarkable blend of architectural styles.
Part of Sarkhej: Elements
Since Sarkhej was built during the period when the sultanate architecture’s details were quite new, the Sarkhej Roza style stands out. Meaning that the arches and minarets that characterize the Mughal architecture were missing and the structure consisted of a flat roof and pillars. During the reign of Mahmud Begda, the architecture continued in the trabeated style, but details such as Sluices, Jharokhas or the replacement of minarets appeared more frequently than before.
Sluice Gates and Lake
The Sluices at Sarkhej are considered among Begda’s important later monuments.
Begda built a lake on a grand scale surrounded by stone steps and covered the central area of the site. The southern side of the lake touched the edge of the mosque.
The sluices at the back of the mosque, which is an inlet of water into the tank and connects nearby Makarba Lake, is richly carved with filigree usually seen on minarets and buttresses.
The water in the lake was considered sacred and used for ablution and was open for the rest of the villagers as well. The site was now a water complex with pavilions and mausoleums around it. This made Sarkhej a place for social gatherings.
Sarkhej Lake (Ahmed-sar Lake) would potentially draw water from the parent lake, Makarba Lake, from the three sluice gates making a cascade(fig.3). Makarba, a natural water body, keeps the Sarkhej Lake moist all year round. The water flows down in the lake during the monsoon season. The perennial Sarkhej lake serves the purpose of climate regulating the surrounding built structures. The cool air through the lake enters from a richly decorated stone Jharokha on the facade of the building. Thus, the site became a royal summer retreat for leisure.
Jharokha
The Balconied windows or the Jharokhas appeared in the buildings very frequently. Earlier the Jharokhas were placed either on the side or back side of the building, but Begda also projected them from the front facade.
Jharokhas are balconied windows projecting out a face providing a panoramic view. It consists of a seating parapet, with a richly decorated backrest. The whole jharokha is supported on intricately carved brackets. Columns supporting the flat roof and hajj with merlons on top.
In Sarkhej, the jharokhas provide views of the lake and other structures while giving shade and ventilation, protecting from harsh sun. They provide not only functional aspects but also contribute to overall aesthetic making a sense of grandeur and elegance. The details are very well worked out with the stonework and latticework, with the interlocking joineries. The fact is that with such simple details and austerity, the structure looks remarkable. The play of light and shadow with the colonnade, jharokha and the filigree in traceries make the structure even more alive.
Traceries
Along with the play of light and shadow, the traceries also ventilate the place. It makes the huge chunk of structure appear as if it’s porous. One can imagine the magical perspective formed with the colonnade and geometrical traceries that filter out the rays. The stone flooring appears golden as the filtered rays hit the floor from various patterned traceries. The various filigree on the traceries made the play of sun and shadow which makes the space feel relaxing and warm.
Sarkhej in Whole
Even though the structures were built in different eras by different kings, the entire site fits together nicely. The meticulously constructed lake and steps appear to be holding the site and buildings together.
The site has a mausoleum of Ganj Baksh with a courtyard. The Baradari in the courtyard’s centre adds to the structure’s magnificence. On one side of the mausoleum is the mosque with a huge courtyard and a colonnade surrounding the court. Unlike the typical language of mosques, the minarets here are absent and the structure is trabeated instead of arcuated. The south facade of the mosque has jharokha facing the water tank.
On the other side of the pavilion or baradari is the mausoleum which has tombs of three generations and the stonework of traceries is immaculate. It is believed that three queens were buried here but only Queen Rajabai’s tomb is found. The queen’s and kings’ mausoleums are separated by the stone steps leading to the tank. The tank lies on the southern side of the mosque. Opposite to the mosque are the King and Queen pavilions. The King’s pavilion does not have much remains but a doorway with jharokha and some columns.
The Queen’s Pavilion, on the other hand, is a treasure of austerity and simplicity. When viewed from the opposite side of the lake, it looks to have just one floor, yet the depth of the building can be seen from the lake. The pavilion is compared to the Acropolis of Athens. “You don’t need to travel to the Acropolis, you have everything here”. (Corbusier,1951)
References:
Desai, Ziyaud. Indo-Islamic Architecture. 1970.
Meeramani (2022). Sarkhej Roza – Acropolis of Ahmedabad. [online] So Many Travel Tales. Available at: https://somanytraveltales.com/sarkhej-roza-acropolis-of-ahmedabad/
Maverickbird. (2017). Sarkhej Roza Architecture. [online] Available at: http://www.maverickbird.com/india/the-silence-of-sarkhej-roza/.
Nast, C. (2022). Sarkhej Roza, Gujarat: The story behind Ahmedabad’s ancient necropolis. [online] Condé Nast Traveller India. Available at: https://www.cntraveller.in/story/sarkhej-roza-gujarat-the-story-behind-monuments-of-india/.
