The Island of Saint-Louis: A Journey through Colonial era, sustainable restoration and future prospects

The Island of Saint-Louis was founded as a French colonial settlement in the 17th century. It was the capital of Senegal from 1872 to 1957 and played an important role in West Africa in terms of culture and economy. The town’s location on an island, its regular grid plan, the system of quays, and the characteristics of colonial architecture give Saint-Louis its distinctive appearance and identity. Established as the initial French chartered company on the Atlantic coast of Africa in 1659, the Island of Saint-Louis evolved into a central point for European traders navigating the river throughout the year, seeking slaves and commodities like gum, Arabic, gold, leather, and more. This petite oceanic city served as the political capital of the colony and French West Africa (FWA) until 1902, and it continued as the capital of Senegal and Mauritania until 1957. Its decline ensued with the relocation of the capital to Dakar.

Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet1
Aerial view of the Island of Saint Loius, Senegal_scholesphotography

There are three departments in the region of Saint-Louis of Senegal which are Saint-Louis, Dagana, and Podor. Among these Saint-Louis is the most densely populated with an estimated 310 people/km2 as opposed to the average regional density of 44 km2. The city of Saint-Louis de Senegal lies on the mouth of the Senegal River that runs through the entire city from north to South. There is a coastal plain to the west bordering on the Atlantic that rises gradually to the east and inland toward the mainland. Although these strategic characteristics made Saint-Louis de Senegal into a port and river transport hub, they have also limited urban growth and made it subject to persistent flooding.

Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet2
Streets of Saint-Louis Island, Senegal_Lee Litumbe

The designated property encompasses the entirety of the Island of Saint-Louis, including its banks, quays, and the iconic Faidherbe Bridge. The island is structured into three distinct parts: the North Quarter, the South Quarter, and the central Place Faidherbe, which features the Government Palace. Encircled by a network of quays that serve as a guiding framework for all east-west streets, the island’s urban layout is marked by military barrack-style architecture at the governmental seat, positioned at the orthogonal center of a meticulously organized urban plan atop the city’s ancient fort.

Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet3
Faidherbe Bridge over Senegal River that connects Saint-Louis island to the African mainland_ booked.net

The city’s charm and identity are influenced by its splendid “balconied houses,” “gallery houses,” elegant Signares, and the rare “Portuguese Maison basses.” The majestic Faidherbe Bridge, with its spans imported from France in separate parts in 1897, seamlessly integrates into the urban plan without altering its original design. The Island of Saint-Louis stands as a remarkable example of a colonial city, characterized by stylistic unity, urban coherence, and a high-quality colonial architectural heritage rooted in typologies and the planning principles inherited from the colonial era.

Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet4
Remains of the Saint-Louis railway station, Senegal_Jean-Louis Delbende, senegalonline

The historical richness of Saint-Louis Island, encompassing its architecture, fishing economy, and cultural tourism, remains a prominent attraction in West Africa. As you stroll through this unique landscape, a row of townhouses graces the streetscape. These houses showcase symmetrical French windows opening onto balconies adorned with decorative wooden balustrades, some crafted from wrought iron, and crowned with mechanical tile awnings. Not only do these structures evoke a sense of freshness, with ground-floor shops engaging the street, but their brightly colored facades also serve as a vibrant backdrop for cultural expression. This is notably evident during events like the Saint-Louis Jazz Festival, the largest of its kind in Africa, hosted annually on the island.

Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet5
Architecture around the city of Saint-Louis Island, Senegal_Lee Litumbe

Since 2000 the city has been inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage Site as; “The historical city of Saint-Louis exhibits significant cross-fertilization of values and influences in the development of education and culture, architecture, handicraft, and services in a larger part of Western Africa” (Criterion II) and because “The island of Saint-Louis, the former capital of Western Africa is an excellent example of a colonial city characterized by its specific natural environment and how colonial government developed in this region.” (Criterion IV). The conceptual integrity is ensured by the fact that the entire island is designated as a World Heritage Site, including the beaches, quays, and the Faidherbe Bridge.

Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet6
Around the city of Saint-Louis Island, Senegal_ Lee Litumbe

The present-day appearance of Saint-Louis bears the indelible imprint of Governor Faidherbe’s visionary urban plan. His orthogonal grid, more than any other influence, has left an enduring mark that subsequent urban developments, including the construction of the majestic Faidherbe Bridge, inaugurated on October 19, 1897, by André Lebon, have been unable to alter. The bridge has since become the emblematic symbol of the city. This remarkable continuity has allowed the Island of Saint-Louis to retain its authenticity, closely tied to a built environment that, despite undergoing significant transformations, remains rooted in Governor Faidherbe’s enduring urban vision.

Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet7
Saint-Louis Cathedral, Senegal_Jean-Louis Delbende, senegalonline

Marieme Soumare from Jeuneafrique states, “What is missing in Saint-Louis is the heritage identity perspective which gives real value to the inherited object. In heritage, there is also the freedom for the heir to do something with it. An inheritance burdened with debt can be refused. n Saint-Louis, everything speaks. The colonial fact is everywhere, and the architecture of our city reveals our history.”

Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet8
Double revolution staircase of the former orphanage of the Sisters of the Saint-Joseph de Cluny in Saint-Louis, SENEGAL_Jean-Louis Delbende, senegalonline

The cultural offerings need a revitalization that extends beyond the historical heritage. Merely contenting ourselves with the present is not sufficient,” the city suggests. Presently, there appears to be a greater emphasis on the future rather than dwelling on the past. The city is set on tapping into offshore oil and gas resources, slated for exploitation in 2023. This prospect has the potential to breathe new life into the city, ushering in a transformative era, for better or for worse.

Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet9
architecture in Saint-Louis, Senegal

Source: Jean-Louis Delbende, senegalonline

The tourism development program financed by the French Development Agency (AFD) works on public and private heritage, public squares, and quays. An emergency fund for heritage protection was also set up by local authorities in 2018, included in the budget of the state’s 2019-2023 Priority Action Program (PAP). Initiatives like these have enabled some significant work: rehabilitation of the cathedral, development of the former Place Faidherbe and Avenue Jean Mermoz, and renovations of several private houses. As part of a UNESCO project, “Sustainable Management of World Heritage for the Fight against Poverty”, UNESCO is studying the feasibility of setting up an aid fund for the restoration of built heritage by activating the local financing levers while protecting populations through the development of economic activities.

Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet10
Governance building in Saint-Louis Island, Senegal_ Charles O. Cecile
Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet11
Aly Sine, heritage director at the town hall, in front of the forgotten chapel of Saint-Louis, Senegal_Annika Hammerschlag, JA

Aly Sine, heritage director at the town hall, in front of the forgotten chapel of Saint-Louis, Senegal_Annika Hammerschlag, JAThe island of Saint-Louis encapsulates a rich history and architectural heritage, evolving from a French colonial settlement to the capital of Senegal. Recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, the island reflects cross-cultural influences in education, culture, and services across Western Africa. Balancing preservation and growth, Saint-Louis faces contemporary challenges, notably with potential offshore resources. Ongoing conservation efforts, like the French Development Agency-funded program, contribute to restoring landmarks. However, the city acknowledges the need for comprehensive strategies, emphasizing local financing and economic development.

Travel the World: Island of Saint-Louis-Sheet12
House where Pierre Loti would have stayed in Saint-Louis, Senegal_Jean-Louis Delbende, senegalonline

References:

AFP, G. G. /., 2018. Le Point. [Online]
Available at: https://www.lepoint.fr/culture/tout-ce-que-vous-n-aurez-plus-a-demander-sur-saint-louis-du-senegal-page-2-04-02-2018-2192047_3.php?utm_medium=website&utm_source=archdaily.com
[Accessed 19 01 2024].

Lucia Martinez-Quintana, E. C.-M., 2016. Urban growth and cultural identity; fractures and imbalances in heritage values: A. Island Studies , 11(1), pp. 291-306.

Soumare, M., 2023. jeanafrique. [Online]
Available at: https://www.jeuneafrique.com/1408436/culture/peut-on-encore-sauver-saint-louis-du-senegal/?utm_medium=website&utm_source=archdaily.com
[Accessed 19 01 2024].

UNESCO World Heritage Centre 1992-2024, 2005. unesco. Durban, UNESCO .

UNESCO World Heritage Centre 1992-2024, n.d. unesco. [Online]
Available at: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/956/
[Accessed 19 01 2024].

World Monuments Fund, 2019. WORLD MONUMENTS FUND. [Online]
Available at: https://www.wmf.org/project/saint-louis-island
[Accessed 19 01 2024].

Author

Subika is a passionate architect and dedicated artist, who merges creativity with purpose. Eager to push the boundaries of architecture, She aspires to create spaces that leave a positive imprint on the world. Her medium extends beyond blueprints, finding expression through the artistry of pen and ink.