My explorations to the Russian lands following their turmoil brought much business and new acquaintances, but Mon Amour, I write with a heavy heart, because as I deeply miss you my darling, I have heard of a new land of rich architecture and commerce —The Old Town of Kuldīga.
Talk of Kuldīga: A Land at the Crossroads
After my trip to Moscow, I was embarking on a caravan to the Sea—where I may charter passage back to you my love—when a man whom I met during the ride told me of the most fantastical land.
He spoke of an enchanting land set on the banks of the Venta, only a day’s navigation from the edge of the Baltic Sea. He called it Kuldīga. It seems to be heavily favoured by craftsmen—from artisans to weavers. It is the administrative centre of the Duchy of Courland and Semigallia, so there is quite a favourable tax that supports trade—perhaps I will be able to pick up some of that rich honey you love so much from Istanbul—as I said, Kuldīga is quite connected to trade across the continent as the river network feeds directly to the city and its meandering peninsula defines its centre.
The Approach
The Venta has been a mostly calm ride—there were a few modest waterfalls that we had to disembark and traverse around, but overall this land is quite accommodating to explorers with few marauders or thieves. The countryside is blossoming with greenery and small peasant farmers; however, its greatest beauty is its forests with the most breathtaking wildlife.
As dusk broke along the Baltic coast we took a few hours to go on a wolf hunt. We had found a few tracks near the inlet we disembarked from our sea vessel to our riverboat—this was to little avail, but I digress.
You could tell we were approaching Kuldīga as the shaking green leaves of the forest became speckled with the brownish-red clay of settlement roofs. Passing beneath a wooden bridge, our boat quickly became one of many as we approached the moor before the administrative state’s toll booth—by toll booth I mean the rapids and falls which make this stretch of the river unpassable—now I know why Kuldīga was established here!
Walking the Commons and Eyes on the Castle
Following the disembarking of our boat, I began to walk Kuldīga to understand what it offered.
Its cobblestone streets outline a meandering yet functional network of pathways that traverse its urban area and markets. The people of this town are quite friendly—everyone and their grandmother seems to have something they would like to sell you. I can’t deny that for the most part they are of exceptional quality and character—I haven’t located any honey yet.
The buildings which these craftsmen occupy are quite remarkable. Hewn from the neighbouring forest, these structures are of log construction—providing exceptional strength and protection from the harsh elements; however, dotted among them are brick and timber-framed buildings that evoke much of the same characteristics and architecture that I have witnessed across the globe—how metropolitan this small town of Kuldīga is!
A digression: I was marvelling at a residence that greatly resembled a Slavic temple I observed while in Moscow—plastered in white, fantastical cupolas, and gleaming gold domes—to my surprise, a voice came from behind me speaking in Russian and saying it was for sale for the right price! Although I think you would enjoy spending our elder years here, I acted reserved and didn’t offer a bid. The man was a Russian ex-pat who had escaped to Kuldīga during the Time of Troubles. He built this magnificent house to remind him of his beloved homeland he may never return to.
This man’s house was only outdone by the castle at the end of my route.
This was the Castle of Kuldīga—also known as Jesusburg or Goldingen. It is constructed of mighty stones dredged from the Venta and situated on its bank. It contains a mill, guard house, and castle residence. Originally, it was a defensive outpost and arm of justice—quite the scene of executions back in the day. I was deeply enthralled with a conversation with one of the guardsmen, at which time, a messenger interrupted us, he said that his greatness Duke Wilhelm Kettler wished to meet, house, and dine with me tonight—I guess my business acumen precedes me!
Invitation of the Duke (Wilhelm Kettler)
Set within the great dining hall of the Castle, the Duke, or “Wilhemy” as he prefers to be called—don’t ask me, it took a couple of goblets of wine for us to get here—is the son of Gotthard Kettler, a great warrior in the Livonian War. Compared to his father’s reverence in this land, Wilhemy is struggling to keep control, but he is a great and honourable man to spend a night of feasting with.
The Duke mentions that under his reign commerce has flourished in Kuldīga. I told him that this was greatly apparent to me as I roamed the streets and spoke with the craftsman.
The notoriety of Kuldīga’s craftsman and architecture is a point of pride for the Duke. He mentions to me that recent floods and fires have endangered his control of the land as many craftsmen and local nobility have begun to revolt against him—he assures me that he will work to control this—at the very least he can lean on his brother and Duke of the neighbouring land for assistance.
The Silver (or Honey) lining
My stay in Kuldīga has been quite enlightening regarding the potential of commerce—as well as its natural and architectural beauty. I would describe this impromptu diversion as a great success as it has opened many new commercial opportunities for the future—on top of this, and you will appreciate this, my love, the Duke had his cook bring the most decedent tray of deserts to accompany our night-cap, in it, a jar of honey from Istanbul! At the acknowledgement of your admiration for this delicacy, the Duke has ensured that I will be departing with a jar of it intended for you in the morning,
With this, I conclude this letter to you and will rush to bed as I can not bear another moment away from you my love.
References:
ALONG DUSTY ROADS (2018) A Short Guide to Kuldiga | Latvia’s Prettiest Town. Available at: https://www.alongdustyroads.com/posts/things-to-do-kuldiga-latvia (accessed 20 January 2024).
Centre UWH (n.d.) Old town of Kuldīga. Available at: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1658/ (accessed 20 January 2024).
euronews (2023) ‘Venice of Latvia’: This ancient town just got global recognition. Available at: https://www.euronews.com/travel/2023/09/24/kuldiga-heres-why-latvias-new-unesco-world-heritage-town-should-be-on-your-travel-radar (accessed 20 January 2024).
Kuldiga | latvia.travel (n.d.). Available at: https://www.latvia.travel/en/city/kuldiga (accessed 20 January 2024).
Lauva (2014). Available at: https://www.artembassy.lv/upload_pic/products/3958/1024x768_15-09-2014_17-21-09_dsc_0083.jpg.
Unknown (16th-17th Century) Kuldīga (Goldingen) marked in a 16th-17th centuries map of Livonia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kuld%C4%ABga#/media/File:Livonia_Islande.jpg.
Unknown (n.d.) Postcard of Goldingen. Available at: https://images.vitber.com/product_full_size_v2/product/63d4041111cf7.jpg.
Unknown (n.d.) Reconstruction of the Kuldiga Castle in 1680. Available at: https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=118331142.
Wikipedia (2023a) Gotthard Kettler. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Gotthard_Kettler&oldid=1161047169 (accessed 20 January 2024).
Wikipedia (2023b) Wilhelm Kettler. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Wilhelm_Kettler&oldid=1162010963 (accessed 20 January 2024).
Wikipedia (2024) Kuldīga. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Kuld%C4%ABga&oldid=1195686412#History (accessed 20 January 2024).
